Project Updates

  • To receive notifications of the continuing exploration of historical pigments with magical names like lapis lazuli, malachite, cinnabar, azurite, golden ocher, and sienna: sign up below.

    Email Address:


    This blog documents the creation of eleven paintings inspired by the 17th century palette of works in Rembrandt and the Golden Age of Dutch Art, an exhibition that traveled to three U.S. cities in 2006-07. During June of 2007, all eleven paintings were presented as my exhibit, Lessons from the Low Countries, while the Rembrandt exhibit debuted its three-month stay at the Portland Art Museum in Portland, Oregon. Read the documentation and see all finished works of this year-long project in the August 2006 through June 2007 entries on this blog.

« December 2006 | Main | February 2007 »

January 03, 2007

Chicanery

Who could have guessed one of the most helpful and instructional guides for this project would be a cunning art forger? While examining one of my favorite art book's bibliography (the best feature of any book!), the title, The Art Forger's Handbook jumped off the page. Eric Hebborn wrote about his artistic skills describing ingenious deceptions, and now art experts are using his book as reference material. How clever!

Mr. Hebborn set the experts on their heels in the 1980s when information surfaced revealing his superb skills of bamboozling. Seems he had faked masterpieces by Breughel, Piranesi, Corot, and many others. After these artworks were distributed into art circles, the experts were in turmoil about authenticities and attributions of many masterworks. According to the Art Times  this book is "An insiders look into the murky art world of greed and chicanery." I found it full of splendid information about pigments, techniques, dates, historic materials, and details of when and what the masters used.

In January of 1996, Hebborn died under mysterious circumstances. The BBC's Omnibus produced a television biography documenting his nefarious life and shenanigans, but my in-depth search failed to find a copy. I'm sure it would be a delightfully naughty story. My library research contact told me he would keep searching.

Now I have no aspirations to go underground or "non-legit" with my painting techniques but art forgery is quite fascinating. One of the best ploys Hebborn suggests is to purchase an artistically worthless old painting, say, from an antique shop or art auction. Wood panel or canvas, each would be naturally aged and seasoned, ready to scrape, sand and paint a fresh layer atop. The most finicky technique to apply at this point is to use era appropriate pigments. If you are setting out to hoodwink collectors with a Van Gogh then some of the more modern pigments such as viridian, alizarin crimson, manganese blue, are acceptable.

However if you are shrewdly forging a 17th Century Dutch, Rembrandt, Titian, Caravaggio or any artist of that era or before, choice of colors is a critical component. Stick with the earths, vermilion, lapis, flake white, ivory black, malachite, and azurite, and you might get away with your ruse.

Another intriguing ploy Hebborn describes is his use of a yellow called chrome. Chrome was developed in modern times to replace orpiment which became obsolete because of poisonous and fugitive (non-permanent) properties. Orpiment was popular because of its bright golden nature and was widely used. However, the slow drying orpiment mixed badly with other colors and altered the hue over time. Hebborn's trick was to "damage the area where orpiment should be then skillfully retouch with chrome yellow mixed with white." Experts would then surmise the particular passage would naturally have been repaired with a modern pigment because of orpiment's notorious reputation.

So, for those of you who do have desires for dupery, plunge right in and try some of Hebborn's surreptitious ideas. Just remember, unless you want to sit for a very very long period in an 7 foot cubicle dreaming of painting, sign your work with your own name and "copy after Titian" or whomever. I think I will stick to that policy too.

January 01, 2007

Yellow Ochre

Yellow_ochre_2_3 Almost done with the yellow ochre. The lovely golden quality glows by this stage of the grinding.

Oak-er Not Okra

Yellow_ochre_just_starting This is a yellow ochre just being wet with the oil. You can see the light area is still dry as the darker area has oil in it. It is important at this point to add the linseed oil slowly to the dry pigment to make a paste. By adding drops at a time and mixing it in prevents getting too much oil. Remember it is easier to add than take away. It is crumbly at first but will slowly become a paste form. Yellow ochre earth colors are indispensable to the old master palette and come in many variations of colors from many places in the world. It also dries fast and grinds easily. 

Uber Umber

Burnt_umber_2_1 Here are several more colors I have added to my palette. This is a splendid very dark burnt umber from Cypress. It is very dark almost black with a warm undertone and is easy to make. One terrific and useful characteristic of this pigment is the drying quality; meaning it dries quickly and by adding it to other colors such as black will make it dry faster also. Black has a reputation for being a notoriously slow dryer. Burnt Umber is an earth color and has been used since antiquity like most of the other earths.

Birch Panels

Panel_prep2In addition to the linen canvases, my plan is to use 4 birch panels as a painting surface. Pictured here are 3/4 inch birch panels cut to size. Traditional gesso made with rabbit skin glue, chalk, and water was soaked, heated and applied in 7 coats, sanding lightly between each coat. This mixture is applied with a fine soft brush stroking in alternate directions for each coat. The surface is very smooth and is ready to paint in 24 to 48 hours after drying. The use of gesso is also archival and has been used since antiquity. It is especially useful for preparing surfaces for goldleaf applications because it can be sanded to a polished mirror/like smoothness.

Priming

Panel_prep1After the glue is thoroughly dry the fabric must be sanded lightly to remove the fine furry particles of fiber from the face of the canvas. It is now ready to prime. Here I have used an oil lead primer from Robert Doak & Associates. It is applied to the surface with a step down palette knife in a thin coating. After several days of drying add one more coat, then allow to dry and cure for a while in a dry space open to the air. I have now stretched and primed 10 canvases of varying sizes from 10x11 inches to 36x48 inches in preparation for this project. I could not have done this much work without the assistance of Dave who is my steady helpmate. He assembled all the stretcher bars, squared and secured the corners, and posed for the previous picture showing the sizing.

Glue Sizing

Img_0105The next step after stretching the linen over the bars is to prepare the glue sizing. Rabbit skin glue comes in a crystal form and looks somewhat like cream of wheat. This is truly one of the historic materials and techniques and has been used for centuries. The crystals are soaked overnight in water and then heated in a double boiler where the crystals dissolve and the mixture is becomes clear. It is applied directly onto the linen with a large brush while very warm, working quickly to cover all the fabric surfaces, sides, corners, and backs. After it is totally saturated the canvas is placed on a flat surface to dry. The slack in the linen will become taut as it dries. Only one coating is needed. The purpose of this process is to coat all surfaces so that all the fibers are sealed and prevents the primers and paints from coming into contact with the linen. Thus it becomes archival.